Chronikulus 31-07-2007 23:55

I make myself a small knife to carry in my pocket. The handle is made according to the recipe from Rumoko from jeans and epoxy. Faced a problem - I grind the handle on a grinding wheel on a drill and the sandpaper gets clogged with material very quickly and clean up its problem. Current with water, but the sandpaper itself is already spreading from the water, or it must be dried for a long time. Tell me how you can quickly clear it. I really don't want to buy grinding wheels in such huge quantities - the golden knife will turn out ...

Snowman696 01-08-2007 12:56

quote: Originally posted by Chronikulus:

a golden knife will turn out ...

It will be possible to show friends with the words "I made it myself, some consumables flew into the Nth ..."

bs4u32sr30 01-08-2007 01:24

if you rub against the skin, everything is wonderfully cleansed.

SanDude 01-08-2007 01:55

Rubber or bronze (or something similar in appearance) brush.
But the most important thing is to buy a good waterproof sandpaper. As a result, it will be much cheaper.

chief 01-08-2007 09:01

Fine wire brush (I could only find a cup-shaped drill)

Chronikulus 01-08-2007 10:25

quote: Originally posted by chief:
Fine wire brush (I could only find a cup-shaped drill)

ABOUT! I have one! thanks, I'll try

Or maybe try a rasp or an ordinary file and then smooth the surface with sandpaper?

yes it turns out faster and more beautiful and the result is better visible - IMHO naturally

quote: Originally posted by Snowman696:
It will be possible to show friends with the words "I made it myself, some consumables flew into the Nth ..."

oh well, my wife is already grumbling

quote: Originally posted by SanDude:
But the most important thing is to buy a good waterproof sandpaper. As a result, it will be much cheaper.

i understand that it is cheaper but there is no current nearby, and as a rule, there is simply not enough time to go specially for it. I'll try to brush it

Chapaev 01-08-2007 10:39

Hand wire brush cleaning, works well. And I also agree with other comrades, high-quality sandpaper is a capital saving of funds, you spend it corny less, it lives many times longer.

OSG 01-08-2007 17:19

lower revolutions - epoxy melts, you can see ...
or abrasive cloth on a cloth basis and even sand in water.

Mutant 01-08-2007 20:19

Use an abrasive mesh instead of sandpaper - almost no clogging. Only she's pretty rude.

Chronikulus 01-08-2007 22:17

i need a grinding circle for a Velcro drill
and so the thought was ...

Chronikulus 02-08-2007 11:04

2 OSG
i have the opposite problem - the epoxy leaves more or less easily, but the fabric, on the contrary, is bad. The villi remain - it turns out not very nice

OSG 02-08-2007 11:36

AND! so this - as almost the finish (the current of the villi stick out) - either with cyanoacrylic, or (IMHO better) with diluted epoxy with acetone, cover with a thin layer, after drying, bring to the right kind... You may have to repeat it several times. Apparently the fabric is not soaked well.

Chronikulus 02-08-2007 12:23

i just squeezed it out well, and it's easier to process it - you can even plan a little
besides, if you put it under the press anyway most of epoxy will still be squeezed out ... otherwise you don't need to pick out the squeezed out epoxy and think about how to remove it from the blade ... in general, it is more convenient and that's it

Or mechanical grinding, right choice abrasive - important factordetermining the quality of processing wooden surface... This is a simple task at first glance, in fact, raises many questions. What sandpaper should you use for the different sanding steps? How to understand the marking when choosing the right abrasive? What properties do different types skins? We will answer all these and other equally important questions in the presented material.

Anatomy of an emery sheet

Sandpaper or sander wheel is made up of three main components: abrasive, backing, and binder.

Abrasive material - a substance crushed to the state of small grains. Various types of abrasives are used for the production of abrasive paper: aluminum oxide (electrocorundum), silicon carbide, garnet, glass, elbor, etc. The size of abrasive particles determines the most important characteristic of the abrasive paper - its grain size, which we will talk about in more detail.

Substrate - paper or fabric backing on which the abrasive material is glued. The fabric is more often used for tapes, rolls and some types grinding discs... Paper is commonly used for sanding sheets and most types of discs. Along with paper and fabric substrates, you can find options from polyester materials.

Binder - a layer of adhesive that holds abrasive grains. As a binder, flesh glue, synthetic resin (more durable) or a combination of these two materials are used.

Understanding the types of coverage

For various works with wood: its rough processing, preparation for finishing, interlayer sanding of coatings, polishing, etc., the following types of abrasives are traditionally used.

Aluminum oxide (electrocorundum) ... Differs in high density and crushing resistance. The most common abrasive for grinding wood and metal. Recommended for sanding untreated wood.

Silicon carbide ... In the process, the crystals of this abrasive crack, forming new cutting edges. This feature of the grains ensures self-sharpening of the skin and prevents its rapid clogging. Silicon carbide sandpaper is recommended for delicate sanding such as intercoat sanding of finishes.

Garnet ... A relatively soft mineral abrasive. Has the ability to self-sharpen, but wears out quickly. It is traditionally used for the finishing of treated and untreated wood.

Aluminum ceramics ... This is an aluminum oxide that has undergone an additional high-temperature treatment. Its abrasive properties are higher than that of an unfired analogue. Differs in maximum wear resistance, optimal for wood processing at various stages.

How not to be mistaken with grain?

Granularity - essential characteristic sandpaper. When the hackneyed question sounds: what kind of sandpaper to grind a tree - they usually mean not so much the type of its coating, the nature of the binder, etc., but the indicator of graininess.

The suitability of sandpaper for a particular type of work depends on the gradation of grain. At first glance, everything seems simple, but in practice, the choice of the right skin is often complicated by confusion in the marking by numbers.

It so happened that several sandpaper standards are in active use on the modern market at once: the international classification ISO 6344 (the new Russian GOST R 52381-2005 fully corresponds to it), the old Soviet marking (GOST 3647-80) and the American standard (CAMI).

TABLE: TYPES OF GRAIN SIZE OF SINGLE PAPER, PURPOSE OF ABRASIVE, RATIO OF LABELS

Abrasive purpose	ISO-6344 marking (GOST R 52381-2005)	Marking according to GOST 3647-80 (Soviet standard)	CAMI marking (American standard)	Grain size, μm
Coarse abrasives
Rough wood processing		40-N	40
		32-H	50	315-400
	P60	25-N	60
Primary grinding Leveling the wood surface		20-N		200-250
		16-H	80
		12-H	100
	P120	10-H	120
Preparing hardwoods for finishing Finishing sanding of soft rocks Grinding old paint for painting		8-H	150
		6-H	220
Fine-grained abrasives
Finishing sanding of hardwoods Sanding between coats		5-H, M63	240
		4-H, M50
Final sanding of the finishing coat Polishing		M40 / H-3
		M28 / H-2	360
Ultrafine grinding Removing micro scratches		M20 / H-1	600

What are open and closed abrasive fill?

Based on the peculiarities of applying the abrasive material, skins with open and closed filling are distinguished. This is another important parameter to look out for when choosing sandpaper for woodworking.

In sandpaper with open and semi-open filling, abrasive grains cover from 40 to 60% of the working surface. The sparse grains filling prevents the rapid clogging of the abrasive by wood chips, resin, paint and other waste. Such sandpaper is optimal for machine grinding, processing wood for painting, working with soft and resinous wood species.

In closed or solid sandpaper, the abrasive grains cover the entire work surface. Such a skin is more effective for manual grinding, working with hard woods, finishing polishing.

How to extend the life of an abrasive?

As the chips and resin become clogged and the abrasive grains wear out, the sandpaper loses its working properties. Clogged abrasive, especially when machine sanding, leaves dark marks, compresses the fibers and polishes the surface, which is why the wood does not absorb the finishing compound well.

To get the abrasives to last longer, start with a coarser grit and gradually work towards finer grit paper. For soft and resinous woods, use a sparse sandpaper with a special stearate coating (dry lubricant to prevent rapid clogging of the abrasive).

At work grinder - take your time. Overheating of the surface softens the binder and accelerates the wear of the abrasive grains. The storage conditions of the grinding material are also an important factor. Cold and critical humidity can render it unusable. Optimum temperature storage 15-25 ° C at a relative humidity of 35-50%.

All of the above cleaning methods are more relevant for grinding abrasives. For cleaning regular skin, you can use a brush with stiff plastic bristles.

When buying a grinding wheel, each of us knows that an abrasive tool will work for a long time, so information on how to clean abrasives is very important for those who grind workpieces with grinding discs. Any grinding wheels or discs (even dense ones) will wear out when working on a surface or material. The more the tool works, the more it and its abrasive wear out.

Causes of wear and galling of abrasive wheels

Damage to the grinding wheel is determined by the material from which the workpiece is made. You can find discs that can self-sharpen. Such a grinding wheel will go to work where wear is determined by simple mowing of grains.

We all know that the grit, that is, the abrasive of the grinding wheel, is in the form of crystals. During the operation of such a disc, these abrasive particles lose their shape, over time the abrasive smoothes out, in this case, self-sharpening of the grinding wheel is a simple and effective option. This is very suitable for those who use a special grinding machine.

If another machine is used, such wheels or discs should not be used. If the grinding machine has a high hardness, then the grinding wheel may become dull during grinding.

So, during grinding, the discs can break out of the bond. When clogged and greasy, the surface of the grinding wheel is unevenly developed. As a result of this grinding, the workpiece will deteriorate.

Any grinding wheel should be used according to the rules. Effective work machine and grinding wheels is possible if they are taken into account performance characteristics... The question is how to clean the grinding wheel?

Another problem with discs and grinding wheels is the clogging of the grinding wheel as a result of its use. Filling is called a process, as a result, chips enter the pores of the disc, which is removed from the workpiece.

In this case, the working capacity of the grinding wheel is greatly reduced. It turns out that such shavings clog the pores of the wheel together with the worn abrasive. Filling the abrasive of the grinding disc affects the quality of the grinding, and also increases the possibility of piercing. If you clean the grinding wheel, you can put it back into operation and use it like new.

Everyone should remember that after sanding, the abrasive wheel clogs up. This is especially true for those circles in which there is a small grain. Therefore, you should clean the discs. The grinding wheel will be smooth immediately after processing. When the abrasive wears out, grinding with such a disc is out of the question.

Some have found a diamond disc for themselves, with which they solve the problem of greasing the grinding wheel. There is an abrasive at the end of the disc. Cleaning can be done from the sides or end of the grinding wheel.

The cleaning bar is more effective method cleaning. A few strokes of the bar are enough - and the disc looks like a new one. After that, the grain will be visible.

How and with what to clean the flap wheel?

Several processes affect the life of the grinding wheel:

• Filling is when the wheel is clogged by grinding the workpiece.
• Wear when the grinding disc wears out during machining.

In such cases, the question follows how to clean the grinding wheel. Because cleaning will extend the life of this tool, and you can work with it as if it were new.

The way to clean the flap wheel is to use a diamond-embedded disc. In order to restore the original appearance of the circle, it must be applied from the sides or from the end. This should be done with care as the surface of the grinding wheel is easily damaged.

You can use a special pad to clean the flap wheel. The disc will rotate, and the movements should be made to the edge from the center. In the same way, you can clean the edge of the grinding disc; in a few seconds, the block will bring it to work.

It is simple, but there are many ways and technologies for such a procedure. Home can be used more simple waysthat will help clear the grinding wheel from grease.

How to remove resin from a grinding wheel?

Many people use an emery wheel to sand wood blanks. When processing is carried out, chips are removed from the top layer. Since wood is a resinous material, the chips that are produced during the grinding process are viscous. This is unacceptable for the abrasive layer of a grinding wheel.

The resin content of the pine is very high. In the process of working with such materials, the abrasive grinding disc is severely abraded. When grinding with a wheel at high temperatures, the resin softens. Therefore, the abrasive quickly becomes unusable due to the pores of the circle becoming greasy.

If the abrasive is clogged, there will be a dark coating on the grinding disc, and so on the workpieces. Abrasive clogged with resin clogs wood fibers.

You can remove resin from the grinding wheel with a special pencil. The emery wheel is cleaned almost immediately. A cleaning block can be used, which also extends the life of the sanding disc and cleans it quickly. To clean the resin from the flap wheel:

• attach the abrasive to the grinding head;
• carry a bar from the center to the edge along the end part.

The abrasive also removes resin from the grinding wheel. It is enough to wipe the surface with a brush or sponge. The special brushes can only be used if the grinding wheel is heavily soiled, but this should be done very carefully.

From the above, it is clear how to clean the flap disc from resin, grease and prolong the life of the working tool. Using these tips in the process, you can polish the surface of the material or workpiece with high quality.

The nature of the damage to the grinding wheel is determined by the material from which the part is made. In addition, the characteristics of the circle itself matter. There are products on the market that have the ability to self-sharpen. However, this is only relevant for those cases where wear is determined by simple mowing of the grains.

It is known that the granular surface of the grinding wheel is in the form of crystals. If during operation they lose their shape, smooth out or fall into the structure of the abrasive layer, then the wheel self-sharpens. This function is provided by the manufacturer; it brings a lot of convenience to the owners of such equipment.

But not every grinding equipment is capable of self-sharpening. As a rule, this is only true for soft circles. If the grinding equipment has a high hardness, then during prolonged or excessively intensive use, dullness of the cutting edges of the crystals may occur.

In practice, this is fraught with the fact that the discs can break out of the bundle. Indeed, as a result of clogging or salting of the upper layer, the surface of the circle is produced unevenly. As a result, the geometry of the product is violated.

This is fraught with not only poor-quality grinding, but also traumatic situations. Any grinding wheel is fraught with potential danger. This equipment can be safe only if its owner has kept its original performance. Therefore, the question of how to clean the grinding wheel becomes paramount.

What is Grinding Tool Grease?

Another side of the problems associated with heavy use of wheels is the clogging of the abrasive layer. This term in the professional environment refers to the process as a result of which the chips removed from the workpiece get into the pores of the circle.

The cutting ability of the tool is reduced or completely reduced to zero. This is due to the fact that the removed shavings clog the pores along with the abraded crystals. Filling with abrasives entails not only a decrease in the quality of grinding, but can provoke a burn-through. Cleaning the grinding wheel can restore tool performance and its previous cutting properties.

Remember! After grinding, the abrasive wheel is usually clogged. This is especially evident if there is a small grain on the circle. This unpleasant phenomenon can and should be fought: clean the instrument. After all, the grinding wheel becomes literally smooth. The stones on it are smoothed out, and there can be no talk of any grinding.

If the emery wheel is dirty on the machine

To solve the same problem, craftsmen have adapted to use a diamond cutting disc for cutting ceramic tiles... There are diamond inclusions in the face of the disc. Cleaning can be carried out from the end of the grinding wheel or from the sides.

The movements of the disc are carried out in the direction from the center to the edge of the circle very carefully, since there is a risk of leaving scratches on the instrument. The end part is also cleaned extremely carefully and within literally a few seconds. After such an operation, the circle becomes new, as if it had just been brought from the store.

Using a cleaning bar is safer and more gentle. Cleaning occurs as the disc rotates from center to edge. Just a few movements with the bar, and the circle becomes like new. The grain becomes visually noticeable, and the disc regains the same roughness to the touch. You can continue sanding.

How to clean the resin from the flap disc?

The emery wheel is often used for grinding wooden parts... During processing, microscopic chips come off the top layer. Wood is a resinous material, so the microscopic dust that forms during the sanding process has a viscous structure. This is detrimental to the abrasive layer.

Pine is particularly resinous. When working with pine lumber, the abrasive disc experiences tremendous friction. This process unwittingly provokes high temperatures, which in turn soften the resin.

As a result, the abrasive is wasted, because its pores become greasy. The first sign that the abrasive is clogged is a dark coating on the disc itself and on the workpieces. Why is it important to know how to clean the flap wheel? The fact is that an abrasive clogged with resin is completely unsuitable for work. It presses the wood fibers, which subsequently makes it difficult to absorb the finishes and antiseptics.

How to remove resin from flap discs? This can be done easily with a diamond pencil. The emery wheel from wood is literally cleaned with one touch in working mode.

The cleaning bar also extends the life of the disc and cleans it almost instantly. Therefore, the bar in a professional environment immediately began to be called a cleaning eraser. To remove resin from the grinding wheel, attach the abrasive to the grinding head and bring it into working position. The bar should be drawn from the center to the edge of the disc and carefully along the end part.

When deciding how to clean the resin from the grinding wheel, you can wipe the surface of the wheel with a brush or sponge and a mild abrasive. For heavy salting, a steel brush can be used, but this must be done again very carefully.

And the advice, in my opinion, is just wonderful. This did not occur to me, although I also ran into this problem ...

So, we will talk about cleaning clogged abrasive wheels, belts, strips and others supplies for grinding tools. When working to remove old paint and varnish or with coniferous wood, even new belts and circles quickly become unusable due to the fact that the spaces between the abrasive particles are clogged with paint, resin and other nasty things, which, when heated, acquire greater plasticity.

In this case, the abrasive particles sit on the belt, their edges are sharp, and the grinding process is no longer in progress ... What to do? Previously, I put the tape in a suitcase and took out a new one (the toad did not allow me to throw out the material that was still suitable, in the future, - AS SHE WAS RIGHT)))).

Sergey offers an easy cleaning method. First it is necessary to heat the abrasive surface so that the clogging agent regains some fluidity. This can be done with a building hairdryer.

Then we take a metal brush in our hands and simply clean out all the dirt. It is removed much easier than "cold".

After that, we are glad that there is no need to spend money on consumables, we put the skin back on and get to work.

Another modification of the method is processing the clogged sandpaper with WD-40 deep-penetrating grease instead of heating it. They say that the brush cleans after the WD-shki in the same way as after heating ... I'll have to try.