The most famous Japanese martial arts weapon is without a doubt the nunchaku. In the 80s of the 20th century, this weapon came to the vastness of the USSR along with karate and Hollywood films. Every teenager after watching the movie wanted to have nunchucks. It was quite simple to make them, the main thing is to know the basic proportions. Naturally, few people knew them, and the nunchucks of those years were more like flails. To learn how to properly use this weapon, you must accurately observe the dimensions of the sticks and chain or rope. After getting hit on the head several times and beating off all fingers on their hands, most of them stopped trying to master given view weapons.

The history of the emergence of nunchaku

As written in most sources, the manufacture of nunchakas is attributed to Okinawan peasants, who so modernized the flail for threshing rice. As it turned out, this statement is not true. The nunchucks were not invented by the peasants at all, but to protect them from the peasants. In order to make sure that the nunchuck is different from the flail, it is enough to hold this flail in your hands at least once. One stick is as long as a person, the other is quite short. In addition, there is a combat flail fighting technique, it really comes from a peasant agricultural tool.

Most of the Japanese kobudu masters adhere to the version that nunchaku are weapons that originated from wooden horse bits. In the books about karate, it is written that all the specific Okinawan weapons were invented by the peasants. This statement is unfounded, since the peasants lived from hand to mouth and that's it. free time were forced to spend at work. By tracing the history of any Okinawan style of karate or jutsu, it turns out that the founder of the school was either a nobleman himself or studied with a nobleman.

Serving nobles in Okinawa lived only off the salary paid by the king. And if the local feudal lords lived quite richly, then for the serving nobles, salary was the only source of income. To rectify the situation, in 1724 they were allowed to engage in trade and agriculture.

In the 70s of the 19th century, all Okinawan nobles were stripped of their titles, salaries and the right to bear arms. Mass relocation to villages began in order to somehow feed their families. The local residents received the former owners and the police very badly. They tried at all costs to force the aristocrats to leave their lands. It came to open mass carnages. Deprived of their usual weapons, the nobles remembered the forgotten skills of hand-to-hand combat.

A warrior, even involuntarily becoming a peasant, will try to turn any improvised object into a weapon. If the ninja used any available items to kill, the Okinawan nobility used them (items) for protection. Two wooden sticks tied with a rope in the hands of a warrior were able to turn into an effective weapon. So the nunchuks took their rightful place among the improvised weapons.

To be fair, it should be noted that wood nunchucks have never been very popular in Okinawa. They owe their popularity to Bruce Lee.

Nunchucks these days

Modern nunchucks are two sticks made of wood, metal or other dense material, connected by a rope or chain.

Low-grade films by Hollywood directors have promoted the nunchucks as the most effective melee weapon, wielding which you can even defeat the enemy with a sword. Any experienced fighter knows that any long weapon is superior to a short weapon, and even more so than a sword. And the spectacular rotations of the nunchaku in real combat are not used, since the rotating weapon is easily knocked out of the hands.

Nunchucks are weapons that allow you to fight multiple unarmed opponents or opponents armed with knives. This is where they are extremely effective. Against any long weapon, be it a pole or a baseball bat, nunchaku has practically no chance (unless of course you are a master of nunchaku jutsu, and your opponent is not a local gopnik).

A bunch of modern styles karate use nunchucks for their studies, sometimes even for black belt they require compulsory knowledge of techniques with nunchaku.

Types of nunchaku

Despite the apparent similarity of all nunchaku, there are several types of them. Let's try to figure it out.

• The simplest and most harmless nunchucks are soft training ones. With their help, you can master the basics and give yourself an answer to the question "do I need this?" Unfortunately, they are not very suitable for studying real military equipment;
• Simple wooden nunchucks. They are two sticks connected by a rope or chain. It is already possible to inflict injury with such a weapon (unfortunately, the owner usually receives these injuries);
• Wooden faceted nunchucks. Despite the unsightly appearance, they have a terrible destructive power. An edge strike can be twice as strong and is guaranteed to pierce the skull;
• Metal models. If they are made of thick steel, they can cause a lot of destruction. At least they break bricks with ease;
• Real combat weighted models. Lead is poured into the ends of the handles or a massive bolt is screwed;
• Weapon of ninja or other extraordinary warriors. The ninja possessed an impressive arsenal of transforming weapons. Their nunchucks could twist together; chains and blades were often kept in a hollow handle. Moreover, these blades could be screwed into the ends of the nunchaku, turning them into a deadly weapon (ninjas in general were great inventors who were ahead of their era).

Here is a list of the most common types of nunchaku. Sometimes there are other samples created by the imagination of their owners.

How to make nunchucks for beginners

In order to fight against hordes of ninjas, you need to make nunchucks. Before making them, it should be remembered that wearing a nunchaku is equivalent to carrying a cold weapon. The first training nunchucks can be purchased at sports stores. Fighting with such shells will not work, they are too light and unreliable. A training sample by weight must correspond to a combat analogue or weigh more.

There is a simple way to make the first nunchucks, which will be close in weight to their combat counterparts and will not cause much damage to their owner (both physically and financially). These are nunchucks made from plain paper wallpaper.

When you start training with nunchaku, you need several types of nunchaku. Firstly, at the initial stage you will need light training nunchaku made of soft rubber, foam rubber or other similar material. During the first months of training, you will hit yourself more often than the target, and soft nunchaku will help you avoid injury. In the future, you will use these nunchaku for training with a partner. When you learn not to fall on your own, you will need ordinary wooden or plastic nunchaku with which you will practice combat techniques, exercises for breaking objects, etc. Another type of nunchaku you will need is heavy plastic or metal nunchaku to develop strength and endurance. When making or purchasing these types of nunchaku, you will also need to choose their size and weight for your height, proportions of your body and for your preferred technique. We will talk about this in this chapter.

When selecting the parameters of personal weapons, the metric system is ineffective. One cannot advise everyone to use a nunchaku x centimeters long and y millimeters thick. Not so long ago, the metric system did not exist and the measures of length usually depended on the height of the measuring person. If you read in an old book that an object was eight inches long, six shaku, two cubits, or ten tsuni, you cannot translate its length into centimeters without knowing, say, the length of the owner's arm. In this chapter, you will also use the measures of length depending on your dimensions - "fist" and "finger". If you see "fist-long" in the text, this means that the length of the object should correspond to the width of your clenched fist (Fig. 1a), but if you see "two fingers", it means that the width of your two fingers pressed to each other, starting with the index (Fig. 1b).

At first glance, the design of the nunchaku is quite simple - two sticks connected by a rope or chain. However, if you want the nunchaku to easily obey you, so that you can effectively perform the whole range of techniques you use, you need to choose the nunchaku "by hand". What parameters exactly require selection?

1. Length of handles.

If all you do with nunchaku is twist them around you, then the length of the sticks doesn't really matter to you. The length of the sticks is primarily important when you block with your forearm (fig. 2a) - if the handle is too short, your blocks will be ineffective (fig. 2b). In addition, the insufficient length of the handles makes it difficult to work the nunchaku as a baton, work with a mixed grip and a straight grip, perform jabs, etc. On the other hand, nunchaku with too long handles are difficult to control and are too bulky. The optimal length of the handle is the length of your forearm - from the elbow to the bent thumb (fig. 3). Sometimes, when there is a need to secretly carry a nunchaku in a pocket or handbag, shortened nunchaku with handles two fists or even shorter are also used, then the total length of the weapon is compensated by lengthening the rope or chain to a length of two fists or more. Such nunchaku are mainly suitable for driving off opponents from themselves by striking them, for protection they are very poorly adapted - this is more a flail than a nunchaku.

2. Connection length.

The length of the connection - rope or chain - affects most of the moves performed. Some inconvenience is that a short connection is better for some techniques, and a long one for others. For techniques where one handle moves freely, lashing punches, rotations in circles and eights and interceptions from hand to hand, a short connection is more suitable - three or even two fingers. The shorter the connection, the easier it is to control the movement of the free handle of the nunchaku and the more speed can be developed when rotating the weapon. The short connection also works well for various squeezing techniques, where the opponent's hand or leg is clamped between the handles of the nunchaku like a nut in a nutcracker. However, a connection that is too short (less than two fingers) is also not suitable for these techniques. On the other hand, a short connection makes it difficult to work with a mixed grip, it frays faster. To perform blocks with a connection stand or a jerk connection, a long connection is better - one and a half fists long and even more. For many choke techniques, a connection that is neither too long nor too short is best, and the same is true for clamps. Considering all these requirements, the optimal length of the joint is considered to be one fist (Fig. 4a) or four fingers (Fig. 4b). This connection length allows you to perform all of the above techniques. It is possible that later you will want to change the length of the connection, adapting it to your preferred techniques, but it is worth starting with this length.

3. Connection material.

The material for the connection can be either some kind of rope, lace or leather strap, or a metal chain. For training nunchaku, a rope is definitely preferable - it is easier to make such nunchaku, it is easy to change the rope or adjust its length, when training in pairs, the rope connection injures the partner less. For combat nunchaku, in my opinion, it is better to use a chain - it is more reliable, does not fray, does not stretch, it cannot be cut with a knife and therefore it can be used to put blocks against the blade, when performing suffocating or squeezing techniques, the chain gives best effect... On the other hand, the chain on combat nunchaku requires a special attachment that allows it to rotate freely, otherwise the chain will twist and this will make it difficult to control the nunchaku. As a consequence, the complexity of the structure increases, which somewhat reduces its reliability. Therefore, some people still prefer rope connection on combat nunchaku. In addition, the chain, when passing through the metal detector, can trigger its operation, but it does not "notice" the rope connection.

4. The shape of the handles.

Nunchaku handles can be cylindrical or conical (Fig.5a), round or faceted in cross-section (Fig.5b). For soft training nunchaku, the shape of the handle does not really matter. For weighted nunchaku and for nunchaku for practicing combat techniques, the conical shape of the handle is preferable - it gives a more reliable grip, prevents the weapon from slipping out of the hand, in addition, the center of gravity shifts to the end of the handle, which somewhat increases the impact force. It is also worth cutting a groove with a width of 4-5 mm and a depth of about 1 mm at a distance of 30-35 mm from the thick end of the handle, and at a distance of 25-30 mm from it - another one of the same. This will also prevent your hand from slipping. If desired, you can cut the same grooves on the other end of the handle. As for the cross-section of the nunchaku, a round cross-section of the handles is better suited for training nunchaku, and a six- or octagonal cross-section for combat ones. The fact is that the faceted surface, when hit or when performing a squeezing technique, injures more. Since the training nunchaku you will hit mainly on yourself or on a partner, they should be round. Nunchaku for practicing military equipment, on the contrary, must provide the maximum damaging effect, therefore, a faceted section is preferable for them. For the same reason, the lower (not connected to each other) ends of the handles of the training nunchaku is better to be made rounded, and the combat nunchaku - with an evenly cut end (Fig.5c).

5. The thickness of the handles.

Two things depend on the thickness of the handles. Firstly, the thickness of the nunchaku grip depends on how comfortable it will be in the hand - a grip that is too thick or too thin will not allow a secure grip and will slip out of the hand. Secondly, the weight of the nunchaku depends on the thickness of the handles (as well as on its length and material). A weapon that is too light will not allow you to strike a strong blow, a weapon that is too heavy is difficult to control, and it is also slow. Traditionally, the thickness of a tapered nunchaku handle is equal to the length of the second phalanx of your index finger at the thick end of the handle, and the length of the second phalanx of your little finger at the thin end (Fig. 6). If you use nunchaku with cylindrical handles, then the thickness of the handle should either be equal to the length of the second phalanx of the little finger, or the arithmetic mean between the length of the second phalanx of your little finger and the length of the second phalanx of the index finger. These dimensions provide a secure grip as well as optimal weight for combat nunchaku when made of wood. If your nunchaku is made of a heavier material (for example, plastic), the grips should be slightly thinner - but not so much that they are uncomfortable in the hand.

6. Weight of handles.

Like the rest of the parameters, the weight of the weapon is selected individually. The weight of the combat nunchaku depends on their size, the advice on the selection of which was given in the previous sections. The weight of light and weighted training nunchaku should not be chosen so precisely. It is enough to remember that the weight of light training nunchaku should in no case exceed 120-160 grams, the weight of combat nunchaku for a person of average strength is in the range of 600-1000 grams, and the weight of weighted training nunchaku used to develop endurance and arm strength may fluctuate from 2.5 to 5 kilograms, and for physically strong people - and more.

So, let's briefly summarize results:

1. The length of the nunchaku arms is equal to the length of your forearm from the elbow to the bent thumb (Fig. 3).

2. The length of the joint is equal to the width of your fist or four fingers (fig. 4).

3. The material of the connection is a rope for training nunchaku, a chain (or, less often, a rope) for fighting.

4. The shape of the handle is conical (or, less often, cylindrical), round in cross-section and rounded at the lower end for training nunchaku, or faceted with an evenly cut end for combat (Fig. 5).

5. The thickness of the handles is equal to the length of the second phalanx of the little finger at the thin end and the length of the second phalanx of the index finger at the thick end for tapered handles (Fig. 6) or their arithmetic mean for cylindrical handles.

6. Weapon weight - up to 120-160 grams for light training nunchaku, about 600-1000 grams for combat nunchaku and from 2.5 to 5 kilograms for weighted training nunchaku.

Now let's talk about how to get nunchaku or make them yourself.

Light training nunchaku you can most likely get at a sports store for a couple of dollars. They are not considered weapons. If you didn’t find them in the sports store, you can buy toy nunchaku in some "Children's World" - they are usually sold either separately or in some kind of set like "Ninja Turtle Outfit". Although these nunchaku are not suitable for blocking, they are quite satisfactory for practicing rotations in circles and eights, interceptions, poking and lashing strikes. Moreover, such nunchaku are perfectly safe. Do not forget to just pay attention to their size, it is important that they are at least approximately the size of your hand, since they are often made to fit the hand of a child, not an adult.

If you want to make light training nunchaku yourself, you will need plastic tubing

or hard rubber about the thickness of the little finger - for example, two pieces of garden hose will do,

if it is not too flexible, - a thin (6-9 mm) sheet of foam rubber or sponge rubber and a strong cord

or a rope - for example, a strong nylon shoe lace is fine. Cutting off two pieces

tubes of the required length, drill each of them across at one end about 10-15 mm from

the edges and connect them with a rope, as shown in figure 7.

Remember to adjust the length of the rope. Pay attention to the way you tie the knot.

Then wrap both tubes with foam or sponge rubber. Attention: very important,

so that the ends of the handles are also soft, otherwise, if you hit yourself in the eye with the end of the handle,

You risk for the rest of your life, like Field Marshal Kutuzov, wearing a black patch on your eye.

To avoid this, take a strip of foam rubber of such a length that it protrudes from both sides of the tube edge by about 2-3 centimeters, cut it from both ends 2-4 times, dividing it into 4, 6 or 8 petals, respectively, as shown in the figure 8a, and fold these petals in pairs, holding them together with glue or duct tape, or stitching them together - this way you get rounded soft ends. You can also simply sew the foam rubber at the ends (without cutting it) using strong threads (Fig.8b). You can secure the foam to the handle with glue, duct tape, or even elastic or thread, or you can also sheathe the handle with some durable, but not too rough, cloth. Hit yourself with the finished nunchaku on the inside of your bare forearm. If this did not give you very unpleasant sensations, then the training nunchaku are ready - use it to your health. If you were in pain, wrap the handles with another layer of foam rubber.

If you are too lazy to mess around for a long time, you can act like one of my friends - he made training nunchaku by rolling two newspapers into a tube, pulling them with an elastic band and connecting them with a shoe lace. Of course, such nunchaku are short-lived, but they are safe enough, and when they become unusable, it is not difficult to make new ones.

Another safe nunchaku can be made from two empty plastic bottles of 330 or 500 milliliters of Cola or mineral water (Fig. 9). A hole with a diameter of 3-4 millimeters is burned or drilled in the lid of each bottle, a rope is threaded through the holes and knots are tied at its ends to prevent slipping. The bottom of the bottles themselves, as shown in the figure, is cut out - it is cut out, not cut off, so that the edges of the lower ends of the "handles" are rounded and do not scratch the partner. The caps are screwed onto the bottles - and the training weapon is ready. It is not very convenient to hold such "nunchaku", but they are really safe and you can hit your training partner with them at full strength, without fear for his health (however, even with this "weapon" you should not hit very hard in the face - you can break your nose or hit the eye).

A nunchaku for practicing military equipment at first is easiest to do by buying two hammer handles from a hardware store - they are usually made of good, durable wood and their shape is quite

comfortable for the hand, so by choosing two hammer handles of suitable length, you can make

of them quite satisfactory nunchaku. To do this, you need to drill them, as shown in

figure 10 and connect with a strong rope. I usually use polyamide rope for this purpose.

(or other strong synthetic fiber) with a thickness of 3-3.5 mm, purchased from a tourist store

and climbing supplies. Remember to adjust the length of the rope. note

on the way of tying a knot - such a knot does not untie when pulled. However, for reliability

after tying the knot, you can also sew it with strong threads.

If you want to make your own nunchaku handles, you can grind them to size,

as described earlier in this chapter and then connect as described. Material for handles

strong wood can serve - oak, beech, mahogany, etc. - either lightweight and durable

plastic, such as fiberglass or tsilaflex. If you want to use a chain,

It's not enough for you to just attach it to the handles - the chain requires a special

a mount that allows it to rotate freely, otherwise the chain will twist and

It will be difficult for you to control the movement of the weapon.

The main types of chain fastening

to nunchaku are shown in Figure 11. If you buy factory-made nunchaku on a chain, beware of Chinese and Taiwanese (as, indeed, any other) nunchaku with a fastener made on the basis of a ball bearing - such a connection perfectly provides freedom of rotation of the chain, but it is not reliable even when strong jerk (for example, when performing a block in a chain) flies to pieces.

If desired, the nunchaku wood can be oiled to make the wood even more durable. This is how Dmitry Koshevoy describes this process ( [email protected]), a general specialist from Lipetsk:

"The kind of tree is selected in accordance with religious and aesthetic beliefs. According to observations, the best impacts are experienced (do not split and do not crumple) dogwood, ash, pear, apple, plum. A little bit is falling off. Even worse - dyb. It is worse. large fibers are quite easily chipped.

The workpiece is straight-layered (i.e., the twists are of course permissible, but in general the fibers should go along the entire length of the future product), it is well done (at least a month in room conditions, and it is better for a longer time and at the end of the drying period you can keep it on the heating battery for several days ).

At first, the product is processed almost clean, but with a minimum slip for the final grinding and scraping (the wood of the mentioned species is already hard and then it will be even more difficult to tinker with it, so it is best to do the maximum work before filling) and in this form it is either immersed in oil for two or two (in general, the armourers call the terms up to six months, but in the context of making pyryklads, and they are the dimensions of the hoo) or during the same time it is regularly lubricated with oil, paying particular attention to the ends - through them it is absorbed especially actively ... Linseed oil is recommended, but sunflower oil is also quite good (I don't know about olive and rapeseed oil). If the workpiece has small dimensions, the cold filler can be reduced to 1-2 hours.

After cold refilling, excess oil is driven off the workpiece, and then the workpiece is heated in an oven at a temperature of about 200 degrees, or with a jet of air from an industrial hair dryer or over a gas burner (in these cases, you need to work carefully - so as not to overheat the workpiece, or you can burn even worse, set fire to oil on the surface). A sign of a normally running process is a barely audible hiss and bubbles at the ends of the workpiece and in the places of wood defects (dust, micro-cracks). Approximately every 10-15 minutes (as oil is absorbed from the surface) the workpiece is lubricated with oil. It is ideal to continue until it stops absorbing and hissing, but usually 5-7 is enough, maximum 10 repetitions. We continue to heat in the same temperature mode for about an hour.

Now there are two options: to let the workpiece rest for about a month to get the polyurethane or to foster the process by heating. Honestly speaking, there is no difference in quality, so the first option can be considered the option for the lazy, and in the second, we heat the workpiece to the usual 200 degrees and keep it for about 10-12 hours (the parameter is very approximate, it also depends on the oil and wood) , not necessarily in one go, you can do it several times. The main sign that everything is ready is that the tree stops getting dirty with oil (the way of checking is to rub it with paper or put the blank on a sheet of white paper), secondly, when grinding sawdust and not oily flakes are poured.

The final processing will consist in grinding (with a skin, gradually decreasing the number) and scraping (better with glass, but you can also use a regular parquet cycle, if you start it better, or even with a sharp knife, but you have to work very carefully with the knife so as not to raise the pile). For dogwood, pear, apple tree, plum - you can even polish the surface with GOI paste of large numbers (green), but only after careful grinding - otherwise it will get crammed into scratches and ruin everything.

If you want shine on a coarser wood (dyb, byk) - you can rub it with a composition like parquet wax. "

You don't have to rush to make weighted nunchaku - you will need them only at an advanced stage. The design of heavy training nunchaku is in many ways similar to the design of nunchaku for practicing military equipment - the main difference is their weight. Attention: weighted nunchaku are designed to develop strength and endurance by practicing techniques at a slow pace - never try to perform movements with heavy nunchaku at maximum speed, you can injure yourself at the same time (tendon sprains, joint subluxations, etc.), You should also not strike with weighted nunchaku on any objects, all strikes with them are performed exclusively in the air. The handles of heavy training nunchaku are made of heavy plastic, metal, or wood reinforced with a metal bar. Of course, for heavy handles, a more durable mount is also needed. If a rope connection is used (it is not recommended to use it with metal handles), then the rope must be strong enough, it is best to use a rope made of nylon, polyamide or other strong synthetic fiber, at least 5 mm thick, from a hiking and climbing supply store. For metal nunchaku, it is safer to use a chain, and in in this case there is no need to rotate the chain, so a welded mount is best.

Below are some of the most popular weighted nunchaku designs, but feel free to create your own design. It is only important that it is reliable. The first option is done in the same way as nunchaku for practicing military equipment with a rope connection, but some heavy, dense plastic (for example, nylon, eculon or textolite) or even metal serves as the material for the handles, and the handles themselves can also be somewhat thicker regular, the rope should also be thicker (5 mm or more) to ensure reliable fastening... This option is the most preferable both from the point of view of reliability and from the point of view of ease of manufacture. In the second version, ordinary nunchaku are taken to practice military equipment with handles made of wood or light plastic, if they are on a rope connection, then the rope is replaced with a thicker one, a hole with a diameter of about 1/3 of the handle diameter is drilled in the lower end of each handle along the longitudinal axis of the handle and depth about 1/3 of the length of the handle. The hole is filled with molten lead, or filled up with lead shot (or iron filings, small iron nuts, etc.) and filled epoxy resin, or a metal bar of the appropriate length and diameter is inserted into the hole on the glue. Then, after the filler has solidified, each handle is drilled across about 20-30 mm from the bottom end and a screw is screwed into the hole or a pin is inserted (Fig. 12). If the ends of the screw protrude outward, be sure to grind them flush, flush with the surface of the handles, so that they do not hurt your hand. The third option can be done by connecting two pieces of metal pipe (for example, a water pipe) of suitable length and diameter with a strong metal chain - it is advisable to use welding so that the connection is as reliable as possible. If you want to use even heavier nunchaku, you can use metal bar instead of pipes, or use pipes, but fill them for weight with epoxy. Let me remind you once again that the main requirement for heavy nunchaku is their reliability, especially the reliability of the connection.

In one of the articles, we already talked about how to make using safe material. But for active hostilities, such nunchaku, of course, are not suitable. To do this, you need to make real combat nunchaku. Based on the fact that you are on this page, I conclude that you have carefully studied and are ready to start making military weapons.

First you need to decide on the length of the nunchaku joints. The handle should be about the size of your forearm. This is necessary in order to do a block when protecting against impacts, covering the entire forearm completely.

Now, how long should the connection between the handles be. It shouldn't be too long, and it shouldn't be too short either. Optimal size this is the width of your palm. The material for the connection can be a chain or a strong leather cord, or rope.

The shape of the handle can be cylindrical or conical as thick as your phalanx. Handle weight should be 600-1000 grams. Woods suitable for nunchaku handles are plum, ash, dogwood, apple, pear, beech.

It is advisable to choose a blank for the handle straight-layered. The pictures show some ways of connecting the handles with rope and chain. They are so clear that they do not require detailed description... I think you can easily handle this matter.

After you have carved the handles of the right size, put them in linseed or sunflower oil for two days so that the tree is thoroughly saturated with it. This is necessary to increase strength. After the workpieces are soaked, they must be put in the oven and heated at a temperature of two hundred degrees Celsius. This process is done as follows. Every ten, fifteen minutes, you need to take out the workpieces and lubricate them with oil. And so about ten passes, until the oil, when heated, stops hissing and bubbling.

Now it remains to let the handles rest for about a month, so that they will finally get rid of.

Of course, you naturally can't wait to make this weapon faster, but you still need to follow the technology of making high-quality nunchaku.

Now you can start finishing the handles. Namely, carefully sanded with sandpaper and polished to shine with GOI paste or parquet wax.

Our nunchaku are ready and you can continue training with a real military weapon. And who knows, maybe someday your efforts will save your life.

Thanks to films with Bruce Lee, nunchucks have gained particular popularity among fans of oriental martial arts. This article will help you make yourself training nunchucks in order to get the necessary skills before taking on combat. Ideally, a person who is fond of nunchaku should have three types of nunchaku:

- light nunchucks (used to learn basic techniques and new movements to eliminate the possibility of injury);
- combat nunchucks (intended for use in combat conditions);
- heavy nunchucks (used to develop arm and hand strength, increase speed, and increase functional performance).

Nunchucks are used for crushing blows and choking techniques. In addition, most of the fighting styles that use nunchucks also use them to control the opponent - throwing throws, selecting weapons, etc. The technique of wielding this eastern weapon includes many elements, which makes mastering the said weapon very difficult occupationso if you wanted to master nunchucks after watching a Chinese martial arts movie, think again, you have a lot of training to go through. Nunchucks are considered melee weapons, so if possible, do not use them outdoors. Although who thinks about the law when his life is in danger? I never could understand these phrases like: do not use ... be careful ... Simply put, do not use nunchucks when you can cope without them. And if you can't, hit it, sparing no effort ...

To make nunchaku you will need:
1.A roll of old wallpaper;
2. cord with a diameter of 5-6 mm;
3. scissors or a sharp knife;
4. ruler;
5. electrical tape;
6. an awl or any other object that can be used to drill a small hole.

Procedure:

Step one. Cut the roll across so that the length of the handle is anywhere from the elbow to the middle of the palm. The length can be different depending on your preferences, sometimes one handle is made longer than the other.

Step two. We roll up the resulting rolls to get a tube with a diameter of about 3 cm and a width of the wound layer over 1 cm.

Step three. We cut off all the excess, and fix the ends of the roll with electrical tape.

Step five. Insert the cord through the hole. For convenience, you can sharpen the end of the cord with a knife.

Step six. Now tie a straight knot at the front ends of the handles.

Straight knot is tied as follows:

The distance between the handles should be equal to your hand (10-14 cm). This length is considered optimal, however, nunchaku manufacturers do not always adhere to this length, so see for yourself.

Step seven. Having adjusted the length of the cord, we tightly tie the free ends with a straight knot and cut off the excess. Next, you can set the ends of the cord on fire, so that they do not creep.

Step eight. Now you have come to the finale. We wrap the nunchaku handles with electrical tape and voila, the training nunchucks are ready. These nunchucks are easy and cheap to make. Combat nunchucks are made in a similar way, only it often acts as a handle solid wood... Good luck with your training and mastering new weapons!

Very often, a person engaged in oriental martial arts wonders how to make nunchucks with his own hands. It is not so difficult to make them, the main thing is to understand the manufacturing technology and make a little effort.

What are nunchucks

Do not think that nunchucks are just an unusual toy that athletes use during their workouts. In fact, this is far from the case. Nunchucks are considered quite effective view edged weapons. They look like two sticks fastened together with a cord or chain.

This combat attribute is very dangerous, as it has a choking and crushing effect. Therefore, do not be surprised why it is forbidden by law to wear it in public places. However, it should be borne in mind that this weapon is not cheap, so if you absolutely do not know how to use it, then it is better to first make an analogue with your own hands for training.

How to deal with the size

If you are making a combat attribute for yourself, then you can determine exactly which nunchucks will suit you best. To do this, you will have to measure the length from your thumb to the elbow, as well as the width of your hand. So, the first parameter speaks about the ideal length for sticks, and the second - about the length of the rope or chain.

How to make nunchucks at home

To make such an interesting item, you will need materials that can be found in any home. Try to find items like this:

Old unnecessary newspapers;

Scotch tape and glue;

Several sheets of blank white paper;

Twine (twine is possible);

A piece of thick rope.

Take a piece of blank paper and roll it into a horizontal tube, you can read in this article). Now do the same with old newspapers. The diameter of your workpieces should not exceed four to five centimeters.

Secure the paper with tape to keep it in the correct shape. Now insert the pre-rolled newspapers into it. Try to fit them exactly to the size of your blank slate. If there are not enough newspapers, do not be discouraged. You can fill the empty space by twisting one or two more newspapers and inserting them into your paper tube.

Many are wondering how to make nunchucks, and for good reason. After all, this weapon is very effective, and with regular training it will also correct your muscles.

When you've made two paper straws, start decorating them. To do this, take a string or twine. Please note that the spiral must be very tight, so when using these materials it is better to use glue. So they will definitely hold very well and securely.

Now you just have to fasten both tubes with a high-quality thick rope. It is best to drag it through the entire product and make knots at the ends so that nothing is damaged while using the attribute.

How to make paper nunchucks

The above method was not the only one. There is another one, no less interesting. Therefore, you can choose the one that you like.

To implement it, you will need the following materials:

Two old unnecessary magazines (about fifty sheets each);

Dense wide tape;

Scissors and a thick rope.

Roll both magazines into tubes and secure them with tape. This must be done to give them their original correct shape. Roll the magazines so that there is space between them for the rope you prepared in advance (how to make nunchucks is described in detail in this article).

After completing this procedure, wrap each tube with duct tape. Now stretch the rope and secure it with a nice knot at the ends. A lot of people are interested in how to make nunchucks on their own. So, with the help of paper, it is very easy to get excellent combat attributes.

How to make wood nunchucks with your own hands

Of course, you will need a little more patience and skills to make such nunchucks, but you can make excellent combat attributes if you wish.

First, you need to decide on the size of the product to be made and, starting from this, prepare the sticks of the required length. Now carefully process the wood base sandpaper and round the edges well.

After the work with the wooden base is over, take the chain that suits you and attach self-tapping screws to it on both sides. It is recommended to treat these places with varnish for greater reliability. Now drill a hole in each of the halves and insert a self-tapping screw with a chain into it. That's all, the product can be considered finished. By the way, excellent nunchucks will be obtained from the most ordinary old mop.

Nunchucks from plastic bottles

Another very simple and quick wayhow to make nunchucks is to use plastic bottles with a capacity of 330 milliliters. Believe me, everyone can handle such work. Drill a small hole in each lid and thread the string through it, making knots. That's all, nunchucks can be considered ready. The bottle combat attribute is perfect for training children, as it is considered the safest possible.

Manufacturing parameters

When making nunchucks at home, you need to take care not only of them appearancebut also about comfort and safety. The correct combat weapon must meet the following requirements:

Consider the length of your hands and fingers;

Choose materials that will be convenient for you to work with;

Make nunchucks guided by goals, why you need them. For initial training, it is better to make a light weapon weighing up to three hundred grams. Professionals use combat models weighing up to five kilograms. The choice is yours.