Concrete is an indispensable material. To work with him, it is necessary to use high-quality equipment, adherence to the technologies for working with him, the use of qualified labor force and, of course, the selection of reliable and modern adhesive mixtures.

Presented on the market today different glues for work with concrete. All of them are ready-made mixtures, which include additives, fillers, and directly cement.

Selection of adhesive for aerated concrete blocks

1. Hercules for aerated concrete it should be distinguished among the highest quality and inexpensive. The solution is used in the construction of external and interior walls from highly porous materials, including cellular concrete. Also suitable for repairing small defects in walls and floors. Before applying the surface, it is necessary to grind, remove dirt, lubricating oils, bitumen. The glue is prepared by dissolving the powder in water and thoroughly mixing mechanically or manually until a plastic mass is obtained.
2. Volma-Block which is designed to eliminate cold bridges at the joints. It is used both for installation of gas and foam concrete, and for masonry walls. The solution is easily mixed, applied to a clean surface, which, if necessary, is pre-leveled with the mortar mixture. The ready-mixed mixture can be used within three hours, and the glued blocks can be adjusted within ten minutes. Operating temperature range + 5 ... + 30C. It is necessary to store glue in dry rooms on wooden pallets.

When working with any glue, which includes cement, you must be careful, be sure to use work clothes, gloves, protect the skin.

Blocks of cellular concrete are bonded with special dry mixtures of quartz sand, Portland cement, as well as additives to improve thermal insulation properties and strength.

Their advantages over simple mortars:

• the possibility of applying a thin layer of up to 3 mm,
• higher strength and water retention capacity,
• reduction in the number of cold bridges.

Preparation of the composition begins with the pouring of the contents of the bag of powder into water.

1. Kneading is performed using a drill or mixer.
2. The resulting solution should be thick, ductile, not spread when applied.
3. On application ready mix given about three hours, after which it begins to thicken and requires repeated mixing.

In this article, we will look at how to glue wood onto concrete. The problem of combining these materials sooner or later is faced by many people who began to repair an apartment or house.

The need for bonding such materials arises when wooden floors are placed on ready-made concrete substrates or a sandwich is assembled by oneself.

For a long history construction work Many methods of fixing wood to concrete have been tested. Among modern and generally accepted methods, we note the use of specialized adhesives and the use of fasteners. If you need concrete, then you can purchase it on the website of the Beton-Selinskoye company.

Consider the features of the application of these methods for the concept of which materials are optimal for gluing wood and concrete.

For small areas of bonding concrete base and wood finishes special mounting adhesives can be used.

Please note the following:

Adhesive for construction "Liquid Nails" is a relatively cheap and at the same time effective solution for working with materials of interest to us. "Liquid nails" are present on the market in the form of several modifications, namely, "Universal", "Express", "For panels" and others.

Universal adhesive "Liquid nail" - great choice for connecting concrete and wood indoors. For example, with the help of such material you can successfully connect wooden plates with previously cleaned concrete walls.

Foam is a good option for simple and effective bonding.
it universal solution for the arrangement of wooden floors, the installation of window sills, wall panels etc.

This method of joining two surfaces is characterized by several advantages, including:

1. Affordable price in comparison with other adhesives;
2. High strength compounds after drying the composition;
3. Low thermal conductivity, important for floor and wall coverings;
4. Excellent soundproofing properties;
5. Hydrophobicity;
6. Biological stability.
However, there is a significant drawback, namely, prolonged drying of the foam. Therefore, within 5 minutes, the glued part must be held in position so that it does not move away from the surface.

Important: To ensure optimum contact between the surfaces to be bonded and the foam, they should be slightly moistened with water.

If you need high-quality and durable fixing of wooden poles to concrete, you cannot use glue or foam. In this case, metal fasteners designed for high mechanical loads can be used.

Joinery is based on precise fitting and gluing of parts, and it is precisely the last part responsible for the strength and durability of the product. There are quite a few varieties of carpentry adhesives, and today we will talk about the difference between them and the rules for use.

General classification of carpentry adhesives

The modern range of glue for carpentry includes more than a hundred items. Therefore, for a start, briefly go over the types of glue, their properties and the most popular brands.

By origin, all types of glue can be divided into compositions of natural origin and synthetic. In turn, natural adhesives can include binders of animal and vegetable origin, while synthetic adhesives are divided according to the production method into condensation (formaldehyde) and polymerization (PVA, polyamide). The list of natural adhesives includes compounds based on casein, collagen and albumin, to chemical compounds PVA, formaldehyde, PVC, epoxy, and also the majority of universal types of glue belong. How easy to guess most common got adhesives of natural origin, primarily because of the low cost and well-established production technology.

Wood is a material with high porosity, which is why almost any adhesive composition can be used for bonding. However, since most of carpentry is used for domestic purposes; it is not customary to use adhesives based on volatile solvents for gluing them. This is the second advantage of natural glue - it provides sufficient strength while not emitting in environment no toxic substances.

However, for a number of products it is necessary to ensure resistance to all kinds of external influences. Mostly the struggle is to increase moisture resistance, because most varieties of natural glue lose strength when wet. An increase in adhesion may also be required, mainly such a need arises when bonding parts from hard and dense breeds of small-vessel wood. Here, the best indicators show compounds on synthetic adhesives.

How to choose the right glue

If you are not a professional carpenter, do not be afraid of such a variety of compositions for gluing wood. You can go the easier way - use the time-tested types of wood glue, environmentally friendly and with a certain set of special properties.

Adhesive of natural origin is supplied predominantly in dry form and requires preparation before use. The main disadvantages of natural adhesives are their short life time (up to 2-3 days) and the low strength of the joints, due to the low degree of chemical purity and errors made during cooking. In this case, natural glue - optimal choice for fastening irrelevant parts with a significant area of \u200b\u200badjacent surfaces.

As a universal glue, most joiners use factory-made formulations based on PVA. Well-established manufacturers - Titebond, Kleiberit, "Moment", they are listed in order to reduce the cost of production and, accordingly, quality. Such types of glue are classified according to reliability and quality of connection with an index D with four serial numbers. The higher the number, the more pronounced the moisture resistance and strength of the seam, and additional properties may appear. So, Titebond III glue, aka D4 in the general classification, allows contact with food after drying, mainly this glue is used to assemble end cutting boards.

If the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe parts to be glued is not high, high gluing accuracy or resistance to loads is required, it is better to use compositions based on synthetic resins. Even ordinary epoxy resin EDP in such cases will give odds to any water-soluble glue. It is especially advantageous to use it for bonding hardwood, including thermally modified wood, as well as when connecting wood with foreign materials.

Bonding wood with plastic with epoxy glue

Bonding parts

When gluing wood general rules performing adhesive joints. The fixation will be the stronger, the smaller the thickness of the adhesive joint, the deeper the impregnation and the lower the content of impurities. For these purposes, bonded surfaces must be carefully prepared.

Gluing wooden parts carried out to finish grinding. Precontacting surfaces must be carefully sanded with abrasive paper with a grain size of at least 300 grit to remove fine pile, which interferes with the absorption of glue. It is important to remember that the cleaned surface is suitable for bonding only a certain time: over time upper layer wood is oxidized, vessels are clogged with dust and new portions of pile rise.

When using water-soluble glue, degreasing is not necessary. However, when bonding to epoxy resin or polyurethane hot-melt adhesive, it is desirable to remove residual wood resins and natural emissions from the surface using concentrated technical acetone. It is worth mentioning separately about moisture of bonded parts: a moderately increased moisture content (20-22%) when working with water-soluble adhesives slows down the hardening process a little, but at the same time it contributes to deeper absorption and ultimately has a positive effect on the strength of the joint. But when using adhesives on liquid resins, an increased (more than 12-14%) moisture content is categorically unacceptable, so the adjacent surfaces are pre-dried with hot air for 2-3 minutes.

Glue application and exposure

Glue is applied on the joined surfaces as evenly as possible. The layer thickness should be as minimal as possible, but sufficient to compensate for the curvature. The presence of air cavities in the adhesive joint affects the reliability of the connection is extremely negative. Particular attention is paid to joints with uneven thickness, reaching a peak of several millimeters at the peak: in such compounds it is recommended to mix glue with wood flour or cellulose fiber.

In certain cases, the adhesive does not carry the main fastening function, but is used as a plastic filler. Such situations include reinforcing the joints on the spikes and lamellas with glue, also partly in this category is the splicing of wood with a groove and microchip method. In such cases, the glue is applied with a clear excess, after which quite painstaking work is carried out to remove the protruding residues.

On level and smooth surfaces glue is conveniently applied with a small flexible spatula, which can be used as a regular plastic card. In the grooves and small holes, as well as on the spikes and folds, glue is applied with a brush with a synthetic pile. When bonding parts with a large area of \u200b\u200bcontact, it is necessary to apply a large amount of glue as quickly as possible so that its absorption occurs evenly. For example, you can take all the same end boards and furniture panels: in order to glue several tens of bars, the glue is quickly rolled on them with a roller. The same applies to veneer labels and to gluing flat parts of plywood.

Almost all types of glue require exposure after application to open air. Upon contact with oxygen, the adhesive undergoes primary curing, which allows to accelerate the drying process assembled parts. For adhesives based on PVA, the exposure time can be up to 20-30 minutes, for natural ones - up to several hours. Manufacturers may make specific recommendations, for example, polyurethane adhesive maintained until complete loss of viscosity, and then activated by a temperature method.

Positioning, compression of parts

Exposure of parts helps to increase the viscosity of the glue, which helps to keep the parts in the glued position. However, this approach is used mainly in modeling and the implementation of non-essential adhesive seams. In most carpentry adhesive joints, rigid fixation of parts using clamps and stops is required.

Bonding parts with an additional clamp not only allows you to maintain their position during the drying of the glue, almost always accompanied by drying and warping of wood from local moisture. As the adhesive becomes more viscous, the clamp helps to crush the composition that has not yet been set, deep into the pores, which increases the strength of the adhesive joint.

In carpentry, a huge number of clamps of various types and sizes are used. For gluing flat parts You can use ordinary oppression, crushing the product to the table with a weight of 7-10 kg. But to connect linear elements, you need to not only withstand the corners, but also squeeze the details, which can be very dimensional. Conventional linear clamps do an excellent job of this, if the length is insufficient, an emphasis can be attached to the parts, but only if the place of its fixation is blocked by another part of the product. It is also widely practiced temporary fastening of the stops to made clamps.

For gluing parts at an angle, clamps of a special shape are used, having two pairs of clamps and fixed jaws, rigidly fixed to the frame in a predetermined position. This tool can be replaced with a number of devices, which is often practiced when gluing at angles other than straight. For example, wedges cut into a common pattern can serve as a temporary stop. With this positioning method, it is important that the clamping force is directed as close to perpendicular to the adhesive joint as possible. For these purposes, the occipital parts of the clamps and stops can take a variety of forms.

In conclusion, we will give a couple of practical tips on how to ensure the invisibility of adhesive joints. Most carpentry glues are not just translucent white color: after drying, minor streaks are easy to hide under a layer of protective and decorative coating. But there are a number of exceptional situations.

For example, initially imperceptible traces of glue getting on wood are clearly manifested when impregnated with oil. If you plan to cover this product, you need to work with glue as accurately as possible. The excess glue that protrudes from the seam should not be wiped off immediately, it is better to wait for their preliminary setting, and then cut off with a model knife. The same story with streaks: attempts to wipe will only lead to deeper absorption, so it’s better to just drop the drop with a foam sponge, and after drying, clean the defective place with a cycle.

If small residues of exposed adhesive are to be removed, solvents can be used. Depending on the type of glue, acetone (for most adhesives on synthetic resins), isopropyl alcohol (for those based on PVA), toluene (for universal rubber adhesives and epoxy resins), as well as ordinary soapy water (for natural reversible adhesives). Wipe the dried-up excess with an absolutely clean rag or cotton towel strictly in the direction of the glue line.

Wizard Tips

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To oil paint during storage, it does not dry out and so that a film does not form on it, put a circle of thick paper on the paint surface and "fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.

"The plastic film covering the balcony or the greenhouse is protected from the cliff by the wind of a string, stretched on both sides with a gap of 10-15 cm."

"To work with concrete mix it was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of washing powder per bucket of water. "

“So that the screw whose head is hidden behind the barrier does not rotate with the tightening nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire on it and pull the ends slightly. Due to friction, the screw holds well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut after tightening.”

"You can cut the lettuce of a birdhouse without a scoop. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out a half-hole with a chisel or hatchet required sizeand then reconnect the halves. "

Wooden corks for screws scatter and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut a new cork. Tightly fill the hole in the wall with a capron from the old stocking. Heated red nail with a suitable diameter, melt the hole for the screw. Ra fused nylon will turn into a solid cork.

"The carpentry level can easily be turned into a theodolite, equipping it with a sighting device from a slot and a front sight."

"So that the two strips of linoleum lie back to back, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the noleum."

“So that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driving into a deep hole or groove, place it inside the tube, fixing it with crumpled paper or plasticine."

Before hammering a hole in concrete wall, attach a piece of paper just below. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.

"To cut the pipe exactly at right angles, we recommend drinking this way. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"Turn logs or wooden beams simple when assisting will help - a segment of a motorcycle or bike chain, supplemented by a hook on one side and secured to the crowbar on the other side. "

"In order for one to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the handle of the saw from the upper position to the lower."

You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes with a frequency of 2-3 cm along the line of the proposed cut, then break off the slate on the support.

" The best way stick the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drip only four drops in the corners of the tile. Sticks on dead. "

Shaped openings in the manufacture of curly window frames are most conveniently sawed with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.

"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin rails or rods of vines, stick to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."

"If there is no dowel at hand, it can be made from a piece of plastic tube. For this, the ballpoint pen housing may also be suitable. After sawing off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal incision to about half, and the dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang the door, working alone. But here it is enough to shorten the lower pin by 2-3 mm and it will become much easier to work."

"A very strong, non-shrinking and quite waterproof putty is obtained from bustilate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement !, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (only not epoxy!), Screw the screw in a day. The plate does not delaminate. However, the connection can be put under load only through day. "

“It is more convenient to fix portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass, not with nails, but with the help of stationery buttons bent at a right angle. The buttons gently press the screwdriver. Compared to nails, the danger of breaking thin frames is minimized.”

"Wrap a screw in hard wood is not so simple. If you poke an awl with a hole for a screw, and the screw itself is rubbed abundantly with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."

In order to save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be cut with a sharp knife without turning the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw a simple pencil around the edge of the edge. When working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the rolling direction.

For carrying large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holding body with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.

IF you need to cut a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template freely slides over the stick.

It will become easier to work with a hacksaw if it is in its middle part increased by 1/3 of the height of the teeth.

If you attach a load weighing about a kilogram to the front of the beam saw machine, it will become easier to work. The load must be made removable so that the saw can also perform other work.

"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water, tinted with watercolor. "

"Making a case on an ax blade is as simple as it takes. A piece of rubber tube is taken, cut along and put on the blade. A ring cut from an old car mobile camera prevents it from slipping."

"Do without clamps when gluing wooden frames a linen cord will help. Four short loops should be put on the corners of the frame and the two long ones should be pulled diagonally. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "

"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards, you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, hammer into it a wooden pin greased with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty the floor surface."

"To facilitate the hitching of a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it through a damp cloth - and it will not be easier to work."

"A little rotting on the wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then impregnated with a 10% formalin solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

"Door hinges will not creak if they are lubricated on time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, you need to make a washer from a plastic cork and put it on the hinge pin."

“A failed door latch due to a spring break can be repaired as follows: a spring piece can be successfully performed by cutting a rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic rubber installed between the bolt and the latch bodies."

We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in the open position: a wooden or plastic plate, in which a series of holes for the latch has been drilled. The plate is screwed to the window box with a screw.

"Cut in sheet material big hole in a simple way: clamp a nail (it will serve as an axis) and a drill fragment (this will be a cutter). The circumference is cut through the rotation of the sheet around the axis. "

Even a person far from construction should understand that in the process of erecting such complex construction, like a house, often have to connect different construction Materialsdiffering in their physical characteristics. Different properties sometimes make them difficult to compatible with each other, especially when you need to securely fasten such various building materials as wood and concrete.

The fastening of the beam to the foundation of the house during the construction of the log house or lag to the concrete floor are typical examples of the tasks facing the builder in bonding dissimilar materials.

Consider the issue possible options reliable fastening of a bar to concrete foundation, and then lag to a similar gender.

General questions of fastening of a bar

When constructing a wooden house in the form of a log house or frame housing, the question often arises of how to securely fasten the beam to a concrete foundation, how to fix the lower crowns with the concrete surface as reliably as possible so that you can not worry about the safety of the structure. A wooden beam is attached to the grillage by two methods that have been known for a long time: it is a rigid fixation and an overhead installation.

1. As the name implies, the essence of the first method is to securely fix wood beam to a concrete base with a few special foundation bolts or steel clamps. If you decide to use bolts, then this method of fastening will be permanent and non-separable, and fastening with clamps suggests the ability to disassemble the entire structure if necessary.
2. Surface mount consists in the simple installation of the beam over the grillage without any fixation. On the one hand, the beam turns out to be loose and movable, but due to its weight it is securely installed without additional fastening.

It is clear that the first option is much more reliable and gives more guarantees of the reliability of fastening the beam to the concrete foundation. But the second option is more common. This is due to the lower complexity of installation and, consequently, lower cost. A rather significant mass of the entire structure gives sufficient reliability of fastening with the base and the immobility of the lower crown of the log house.

You will have to choose the option that is suitable for your case. If your area does not have strong winds, the total mass of the house will be quite substantial, and the builders are confident in the reliability of the overhead option, then it may be worth choosing a cheaper option.

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Rigid fastening of the beam to the foundation

The fastening of the first beam to the foundation occurs with the help of anchor bolts and only after the foundation has completely hardened.

To carry out the rigid fastening of the beam to such common types of foundations as slab or strip, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures. They can be carried out even at the stage of construction of the base or immediately after the completion of pouring or installation. They consist primarily in the fact that even at the stage of pouring concrete into the foundation grill (concrete tape or slab), special foundation bolts are inserted with the studs up. It is to these studs that the beam of the future design will be attached. The fastening process itself will consist in fitting the bar with a pre-prepared hole on the pin and screwing it with a lock nut. A tightly twisted pair of stud-locknuts reliably attaches the beam to the surface of the grillage.

Consider the process as an example slab foundation more detailed and in stages:

1. So, after the foundation is poured into the wet concrete mass, the very foundation bolts are immersed with the studs up and the bases down (they can be conical or simply curved). The distance between the bolts should be at least half a meter, and each individual wood element must be fastened with at least two fixation points.
2. The next step is preparing the beam. Preparation consists in drilling holes for foundation bolts. Here you need to be careful when measuring.
3. If you have not checked the evenness of the grillage, then it's time to do it. It is necessary to check the horizontal and eliminate all possible defects - fill the recesses with a solution, squeeze the bulges. You can only fasten the beam to flat surface concrete.
4. At the fourth stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing, in most cases it is a simple roofing material. It is impossible to lay the beam directly on concrete.
5. Then, prepared wooden structures. The bars must lie so that all the studs from the bolts enter the drilled holes.
6. How to connect the corners - you decide. Can be connected in a paw or in a bowl. If you want to give greater reliability to the connection, then use metal corners to fasten the bars, which are attached to them using self-tapping screws.
7. At the last stage, we begin to twist the structure with the help of locknuts, having previously placed washers under them. In order to avoid distortion of the structure, the nuts are tightened little by little and in parallel. That is, we make several revolutions of one nut, then go to the second and make the same number of revolutions.

This process is described for a slab base. To fix the beam to the strip foundation, it is necessary to do the same operations, except for the installation of foundation bolts.

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Pile foundation and timber fastening to it

In some areas, the use of stovetop or strip foundation difficult, only pile or screw versions of the foundation of the future home are suitable there. Therefore, the issue of securing the beam to them is relevant for many homeowners. Here the fastening takes place according to a slightly different scheme. After installing the piles, special U-shaped steel heads are attached to their upper part. A beam of timber is laid between the steel plates of this head, and then, through the holes in these plates, the beam is fastened with self-tapping screws or studs. If you want to use studs, then you will have to drill through the bar. This will not give a better bond compared to self-tapping screws, but the hassle will deliver much more. So it is recommended to choose exactly last option fastenings. Let us analyze this type of fastening step by step:

1. First you need to prepare the bars, cutting them according to the available parameters. The bars must be used with a square section.
2. The second stage is the installation of heads. For this, prepared sections of the timber are laid out on the piles, and steel brackets are inserted under them. Having thus measured the width of the beam, the heads are fastened with piles by welding. After that, the welded corners are used as beacons for attaching the remaining tips. The beam for this time can already be removed.
3. In this type of fastening, it is also necessary to lay waterproofing between the steel of the heads and the timber tree. The most common type of isolation is ordinary roofing material. Contact of wood with concrete and steel is not permitted.
4. It remains only to lay the prepared beams, fastening them in the corners between each other by laying in a paw, in a bowl or by planting them on spikes.
5. All preparation is completed, it is possible to fasten the lower log of the log house or beam of a light frame house with steel heads. As already mentioned, you can fasten with studs (then you have to drill holes in the tree) or with screws. It is recommended to choose the last option, since the first does not give any advantages, and the hassle will add.

Installation of timber without rigid fixation takes place according to the following scheme. To do this, not a U-shaped, but a T-shaped steel top is attached to the pile.

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Fixing lag to concrete floor

The second case of fastening a wooden beam to a concrete surface, common in construction, is the installation of a lag on the concrete floor. Modern techniques for floor equipment are very diverse: they use various insulating materials, warm floors, various solutions to level and improve the floor surface, etc.

But today, the option of installing ordinary wooden logs It is quite relevant for both homes and apartments. This method of laying floors is used, as a rule, in houses where there are no problems with the height of the ceilings, but at the same time I would like to save on expensive insulating materials.

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Lag fixing process

Fastening the logs to the concrete floor is quite simple, for this you only need to stock up on three things - material, tools and patience. Such work can easily be carried out independently, without specialists and assistants. The options for attaching wooden logs to concrete are quite numerous, moreover, even rejecting any bonding of the log to the concrete surface is possible. In this case, the strength of the structure is given by a reliable fastening of the lag with floorboards, laminate or other flooring. But such a technique is full of risks of an accidental shift of the boards relative to the timber, that is, everything flooring may be skewed due to the slightest carelessness. Therefore, it is better not to risk it and stick to the classics, which is to attach the lag to concrete with the help of screws or other fasteners.

Having cooked everything necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the installation of log boards:

1. The first step is to lay the waterproofing on the concrete floor, this is usually either roofing material, or polyethylene film. Glue the joints carefully using construction tape so that not a single gap remains.
2. After that install the lags. Two of them are laid along opposite walls, and the rest are interconnected. The distance between the transverse beams is set depending on many factors, but this is mainly due to the strength of the floor covering and how confidently it will lie on the logs without bending. Than stronger material floor, the shorter the step between the bars. But in general, the distance varies from 50 to 80 cm.
3. Logs can be joined joint to joint if large loads are not expected. Otherwise, special cuts are made at the ends of the lag for a more tight connection between them.
4. After laying the two main lags with the help of a level and rulers, the horizon is measured and the same height is set. For the convenience of laying transverse logs, a cord is stretched at the site of the future installation of the beam.
5. It's time to do the actual fastening lag to the concrete floor. For this, both in the lag itself and in concrete floor drill symmetrical holes. Either a dowel made of polypropylene plastic or the locking part of the steel anchor is inserted into the hole in the concrete floor. Logs are fastened with concrete either with self-tapping screws or bolts. For reliable fastening of the log with the floor, 2-3 anchors are enough. Self-tapping screws are required one at a time for approximately every 40-80 cm.
6. In some cases, special plywood gaskets cannot be dispensed with, thin boards or chipboard. They are inserted between the lags and the insulating material to level the structure. The purpose of these gaskets is to combat the deflections of the logs, and hence with the creaks of future floors. Of course, such gaskets are already an indicator of the poor-quality work of someone who poured concrete on the floor, because ideally it should be completely even, but sometimes such minor flaws still occur even with recognized masters. Particularly difficult cases may even require a notch to be cut out under a convex uneven floor.

Correct installation of the lag will help to avoid troubles such as creaky or uneven floors.

After laying all the lags between them, the chosen one is lined up. thermal insulation material. On top of the log and before installing the floors, another waterproofing layer is lined. This allows you to make the floor both durable and warm enough without spending extra money. That is, according to the price-quality criterion, this is one of best options building an effective floor. Exactly simple circuit fastening the lag to the concrete surface allows achieving such good results.

You can achieve all this yourself, the technology of fastening the beam to the concrete of the foundation and the log to concrete surfaces is not difficult, it is available even to one person. But in preparation for such work, you should not save on materials, it is better to choose the logs and bars that are right for you, exactly the necessary section and quality. Do not save on tools, especially since the most difficult one will most likely be a puncher, the rest of the material is consumable (screws, bolts, anchors, waterproofing materials etc.).

You will succeed. Good luck in your endeavors!